Review: Liquid Green stuff

Hello all,
I picked up a bottle of this new product today, and so far I am impressed.  as its name says its Liquid Green stuff, retails here for $4.45 for a GW paint pot sized amount.  I tried it out tonight on a conversion I have been working on and have to say I love it.  If you have seams or small cracks in a model, say where two parts join, then this is your friend.

So here are some Pros and Cons
Cons:

• Dries fast, leave the pot open and you will ruin it fast.  When I say dries fast I mean minutes after application.
• Water soluble, this is a double edged blade in this regard, the negative side is water based paints can liquify it again, however your primer should seal it.
• You can't sculpt with it, don't even try to.
• Dries a little soft.
• requires a little clean up and can hide details if you over brush.

Pros:

• Amazing control over where it goes, you brush it on.  Just use an old stiff brush.
• Dries fast, speeds up the time from assembly to painting.
• Is water soluble, I used a damp cloth to clean up an area of over brush.  Also if you spill any its an easy cleanup.  Will stain your brush green.
• You can file and Sand it.

After a few attempts at using it, like all our tools, you get better at using it.  I find this stuff a wonder, and will be using it to seal seams in tanks, and joints in models.  I recommend you get a pot and try it out, even works with warmahordes (Just clean your resin first).

How to: Perfect Pinning

Greetings friends,
Today I'd like to share with you how I pin models to perfection.  I know many of you dread the idea of metal models and having to pin parts together, so what if I said you do this perfectly in four easy steps?

Here's how.

Step One

Drill your holes in half of your project, in my case I used a Marine that I would like to pin to a resin base.

Step Two

Take a blob of blue tack (sticky Tack) and place it on the other half of your project where you want to make the connection with your pins.

Step Three

Press Part A (my Marine) onto the blue tack on part B.  Before you do this apply saliva to Part A, Gross I know but this prevents Part A from sticking to the Blue Tack and its Free.

Note: Most super glues are formulated to crystallize on contact with saliva, make sure you clean part A before gluing.



 

Step four.

Now use your favorite pin vice and line the bit up with the raised points on your blue tack and drill away.  Blue tack is a resilient material so you can re use it for other projects, I use mine to block off glue points when I prime as well as guide my pinning like in this guide.

That's it, done right with a little practice you now have perfect pinning.  Its simple and fast, and best of all it drastically reduces your chance of messing up the pinning on those pricy metal models.

Enjoy and have fun.

Tip on Dipping

Short post again, may be more of these.
Just learned this trick this morning, when dipping metal figures, like flesh hounds, don't try and flick the dip off.  They will snap and either break or fly off a 9th story balcony and then definitely break.  Use a can of compressed air, like the ones used to clean dust from a PC, and gently pulse the trigger while moving the figure around.  Worked out quite well for me.   Just be careful not to use too much air on one spot or hold the nozzle too close the the figure.