Friday, June 3, 2011

How To: Dipping bloodletters

Hello all,
This will be my very first how to so be kind.  I decided to dip the majority of my bloodletters one day as I sat there looking at all 60 of them on my desk,  It was a massively daughting task, a little peeked about it I thought back to my local hobby shop where they suggested Dipping.  Its really good for organic models, done right it can look good and you can push out a huge hoard in a week and a bit.

So Dipping huh, Well here is what you will need in no particular order.
  • A 1 step stain & polyurethane wood stain ( I use Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut)
  • A bloodletter or two
  • Either white spray primer a large brush and GW blood red paint
  • OR A mate finish cherry red spray paint (not oil based)
  • GW Foundation Macharius Solar Orange Or Equivalent
  • GW Dwarf Bronze Or Equivalent
  • GW BoltGun Metal Or Equivalent
  • GW Chaos Black Or Equivalent
  • small Flying bases or something similar with a flat surface and a stem
  • Super glue
  • A box or bucket
Step One:
Assemble your bloodletter and make it red, either by hand or by spray can, If you use a gloss Finish spray paint you will need to scuff it up as the stain may not adhere to the paint right when you dip it.

Step 2:
Paint the the horns, spikes, tongue, claws and spine fins Black.  Touch up any red spots you hit with black.

Step 3:
 Paint the sword blade bolt gun metal, the hilt Dwarf bronze, and any horn caps dwarf bronze.

Step 4:
(see above pic)
Dot every raised bump and khorne scarification marking with solar orange, this takes time and patience.

Step 5:
(see above pic)Mount on flying base with super glue let cure for minimum of 15 minutes.

Step 6:
Dip bloodletter in stain after thoroughly shaking the can.

Step 7: placing the stem of the base between your thumb and fore finger spin the bloodletter upside down in a box or bucket for about five or six seconds.

Step 8:

Place flying base stem down inside a beer bottle outside or in a well vented area to let dry.  Being Canadian I was easily able to find 20 empty bottles laying around,  If you don't have bottles you can punch holes in a box for the stems to fit in, or even drill out a holding rack made of wood.  The important part is keeping the bloodletter upright while it dries.

We had one made already to see how it looks, I have noticed that dipped models do look better in person then on camera, I'm also horrible at taking pictures.

Some safty tips.
  1. Do this out doors or in a well ventilated area, the fumes while drying can be toxic and they just plain stink.  You also ideally want to keep the miniatures out in the open standing vertical for up to two weeks to allow the polyurethane to harden all the way,  You can play with the miniatures up to 8 hours after dipping just be careful as they can smudge or dent or chip.
  2. Wear safety glasses so you don't get the dip in your eyes as you spin and flick it about.
  3. Always read the instructions and follow additional safety tips from the manufacturer.

Now as for stains, any brand will work as long as it meets these rules: Its a 1 step stain and varnish(finish), and its not water based.  The colour depends on preference but I found Walnut to be perfect for what I use it for.


  1. I will have to try dipping out sometime.

  2. Its fantastic for making horde armies, Iv seen it used really well on Skaven, tyranids, Nurgle based Chaos marines, and tried it on my daemon army. I'm happy with the result and my next experiment will be using it on metal flesh hounds.